A WHIFF of surrealism

Hartmann Nordenholz fall 2011

... long-standing readers of ParisVienne or those familiar with my newspaper and magazine articles will probably have realized that (a) I've got a certain penchant for surrealism (I wrote my first and very modest university paper about le mouvement surréaliste, as it were ...) and that (b) I'm impatiently waiting to find out whether the Schiaparelli label will be relaunched, and who'll be in charge if it is. Giles Deacon, rumour had it, was once considered as the one designer most likely to follow in Schiaparelli's footsteps, but of course he's now in charge of Ungaro. And when I recently talked to Jean-Charles de Castelbajac, an admitted admirer of all things surrealist, he mentioned "that London designer with an Italian name" as perfect match, apart from imself. I have reason to believe that he was referring to Peter Pilotto, now that's an idea, isn't it, Pilotto for Schiaparelli. But BELIEVE IT OR NOT, what I actually set out to talk about was the wonderful fashion duo from Vienna, Agnes and Filip from HARTMANN NORDENHOLZ, and I wanted to show you some images from their next winter collection, which features some quite Schiaparellesque shoulder flaps (so that was the association that got me going in the first place...). But of course, Agnes and Filip are always good for very fine, beautiful BAGS and ACCESSORIES, too few of them in my humble opinion, but what they've got to offer their customer is always very attractive, season after season, so I also included some images of accessories from their current summer collection. Besides all that, I was also very glad to hear when talking to Filip recently (I'd called him before when I did research for an article about the impact of the Japanese situation on the Austrian fashion scene, and he told me they were hoping for the best as the fall 2011 season might turn out to be their best ever, mainly thanks to orders from East Asia) that all their orders from Japan for fall 2011 were confirmed and that this is indeed going to be their label's most successful season to date. Isn't that quite something, a marvellous proof of steady growth? I'd like to think so ...

Hartmann Nordenholz summer 2011 - I bet you can't wait for their next sample sale to take place!

... je vais renoncer à toutes les reflexions que je viens de faire à cause du fait que quelques peu de détails, heuhm, "poilus" dans la très belle et très réussie (comme à chaque fois, d'ailleurs) collection d'hiver 2011 réalisée par Hartmann Nordenholz, le magnifique duo austro-allemand basé à Vienne, et ce sont donc les très adorables créateurs Agnes et Filip bien sûr, mais où en étais-je, oui, voilà, tout à fait, que donc il y a là-dedans quelques épaulettes en fourrure qui m'ont rappelé vaguement la mode surréaliste créée par la signora Schiaparelli, et je me suis donc souvenu du fait que Mr de Castelbajac, lorsque j'ai parlé avec lui il n'y a pas trop trop longtemps, a mentionné un certain créateur "de Londres avec un nom italien" qui serait capable de suivre à Elsa Schiaparelli, et j'ai donc réalisé plus tard que cela devait être Peter Pilotto, qui d'autre en fait, et pourquoi pas, qu'en dites-vous, Pilotto pour Schiaparelli, hein ?, cela ne sonne même pas mal, mais j'avais dit que je n'allais pas répéter tout cela, enfin quoi jamais, je voudrais donc vous montrer quelques images de la collection d'hiver 2011 de Hartmann Nordenholz, ainsi que deux looks avec les vraiment jolis sacs qu'ils savent faire si bien, de la collection actuelle, et je suis également très heureux d'avoir entendu dire que, grâce aux commandes japonaises qui n'ont pas été annulées, la prochaine saison sera la plus forte depuis que la marque existe, et ça, c'est tout à fait merveilleux, vous serez sans doute d'accord avec moi ...

two more looks from the Hartmann Nordenholz collection for fall 2011

... allora, la catena associativa è stata la seguente: SPALLINE di pelliccia (di gorilla?), moda surrealista, Elsa Schiaparelli, Peter Pilotto per Schiaparelli (un'idea di Jean-Charles de Castelbajac), eccovi tutto. Tutta l'introduzione, voglio dire. Perchè infatti cominciavo a parlare del duo di stilisti Agnes e Filip con il loro marchio HARTMANN NORDENHOLZ che, dopo ormai dieci anni "in business", stanno facendo un ottimo lavoro. Dunque, mi permetto di mostrarvi qualche immagine della loro collezione autunno/inverno 2011 accanto ad altre della collezione attuale (vi chiedo gentilmente di dedicare particolare attenzione alle borse - LUNARI, direi, no, effetto "croissant", dunque perfetto per le vacanze passate nel Sud della Francia). E poi, sono anche molto contento di potervi annunciare che la stagione autunno/inverno 2011 sarà la più forte, con le più grandi cifre di vendita, per questa giovane griffe che, dopo dieci anni, è più viva che mai e pare abbia maturato considerevolmente ...