SUMMER NIGHT 2011 - Ute Ploier

... marvellous. I just arrived in London and try to get myself in a "swinging" mood, but "from Paris with love" came these wonderful image shots that accompany Ute Ploier's spring 2011 collection. Images photographed by Jork Weismann, and the model is designer-to-be (1st year student in the class of Bernhard W.) Julian Cech. If that's not something, then I don't know...


Michaela Bürger @ Colette

... I'm very happy to share with you this great bit of news: the fall 2010 collection by Michaela Bürger, whose work and outstanding personality I appreciate a lot, is now on display and on sale at Colette, in Paris.

Can't wait to see more of this highly energetic and creative young lady ...


HORN-y again

... Florian Ladstätter will show his second jewellery collection for men in Paris from July 24 - 27. And I won't be there. Boo hooo hooooo ...

NOT JUST A LABEL organic t-shirts OUT NOW

... am actually just working on a text about Not Just A Label, before I tuck myself in and get up really early tomorrow, a reminder that NJAL's first t-shirt collection, organic t-shirts ladies and gentlemen, is on sale since, uhm, 50 minutes ...



... EUR 200,000 per year for a soon-to-be-founded Austrian Fashion Development Centre. Handled by ...? Job descriptions see above.

Question: is this "in addition to" or "instead of" the institution that is currently in charge of providing a structural backbone for the Austrian fashion system?

Question: which public institution(s) will provide the necessary (and not so unimportant) amount of money needed?

Question: whose specialists' profiles match the job descriptions in the document shown above (p. 124 of the document that can be downloaded here)? Any idea?

Questions over questions - but please: no answers via email ...


... and settle for a billboard if you can have a housefront?

The "Be Stupid" campaign motif spotted (well, it wasn't that difficult) on the façade of Diesel's showroom in Milano...



that's what you could call a t-shirt-threesome by 1st year students

... okay, so this was the 2010 edition of Vienna's fashion festival week. Hooray, then. And just like every year, regardless of what the organisers think or claim or stress, the real and unpretentious highlight is the show of the fashion department at Vienna's University of Applied Arts.

In 2010, the whole thing turned out to be particularly exciting, and the fashion-addicted (or, let's actually leave it at: interested) crowd was impatient to find out in what ways Bernhard Willhelm's influence on his students would become manifest.

All in all, I saw some really good and solid and well-constructed collections as well as others that were, say, a bit too carnivalesque for my taste. But whatever. University is university, and until you graduate you should probably continue experimenting and try out as many things as you can and/or want to.

By the time you graduate, however, you should be aware of the fact that your graduate collection usually represents the first "valid" chapter in your portfolio, which you will use for job applications etc. The graduate collections by Andra Dumitrascu, Elizaveta Fateeva and Suzana Jankovic were definitely apt to convince (images by Shoji Fuji on Diane's blog here and here)

Very pleasant surprises came from the 2nd year, with sparkles of really good and forward-thinking fashion design. Two names I'd like to mention are Martina Sophie Tiefenthaler who very rightly received the award sponsored by Indie magazine. I also liked (except for the colour, maybe) Ana Delic' collection, in which she played with surface structures and texture, and there were one or two really well constructed (and by constructed I really mean like: I'd like to take a closer look at that, and inside out as for that) dresses in Takahiro Ueno's collection.

Bernhard Gruber, 4th year (left) // Elizaveta Fateeva, graduate (right)

Part of the anticipation and fascination for this year's show stemmed from the fact that Willhelm had taken over from Branquinho - two times Antwerp, you could say, but really, in terms of fashion aesthetics, the two designers are WORLDS apart. Some students, f. ex. Bernhard Gruber (4th year), despite showing an entertaining and not at all bad collection, were obviously all too eager to suck in the Willhelm-spirit. Some pieces from Bernhard's (Gruber) collection might well have been taken straight from Bernhard's (Willhelm) design archive of prototypes. Anyhow, the crowd liked it, so why not.

Graduate student Elizaveta Fateeva showed a very reduced, "tailored" (apparently, from what I saw, a word many students would loathe to see associated with their work), minimalist collection still imbibed with remainders from the years spent under Branquinho's leadership. Not at all bad, and I'm happy that Elizaveta received the award sponsored by Swiss Textiles.

drag queens Miss Candy, dressed by Sophie Pollak // Coco Caine, dressed by Isis Flatz (both 1st year)

I was curious to see Aya Nonogaki's collection, as I really liked what she showed us last year, and even though I wasn't struck just as instantly by this year's work - as I feared that too much deconstruction and a "bits and pieces falling apart" look was going to be inflicted upon us - I must say that Aya managed the whole deconstructive verve really well by fiddling single elements together again in a very refined way. With ribbons hanging down and floating away, which gave her collection a slightly unfinished, edgy but not disturbing look. (As I'm writing this, I'm waiting for the complete set of press images to be uploaded by the staff of the university's press office, and Aya's collection isn't featured...)

member of the hilarious gold-clad brass band - Kafka-inspired? // professor Willhelm and Dame Galaxis, dressed by 1st year student Ken Kumagai

Now, there are few designers who know about the fact that fashion is (also) about show-culture, performance and "mise en scène" as well as Bernhard Willhelm does. That's why he didn't ask his 1st year students to come up with sleeve studies and cotton frocks, but he invited them to create showdresses for Vienna's élite of drag queens.

Very amusing, hilarious, sexy, outrageous - thanks to the legendary ladies in drag Dame Galaxis, Miss Candy and Chantal St Germain, and some of the up-and-coming princesses, led by wonderful Tamara Mascara.

The finale was provided by a entirely gold-clad brass band, stomping up and down the runway. That was definitely a very adequate ending for a remarkable evening - and definitely a promising sign for the self-confident evolution of a fashion institution in the years to come...

(all images except for the first one © Shoji Fuji courtesy of Universität für angewandte Kunst Wien/Mode)



... after looking at the beautiful images on Maria's blog, and don't get me wrong, I absolutely appreciate Thomas' work, I just thought that Vienna makes it possible, finally: Balenciaga and Balmain, the all in one futuristic Barbarella look with, what was the word, padded "pagoda" constructions and a whiff of aluminium foil. But as long as it entertains the crowd ...



... and another one: what I said HERE about the potential and importance of comments left on fashion blogs (and, in this precise case, online versions of newspapers) remains true HERE - and HERE, too, actually ...

NOTE #01

... cute, somehow: at a fashion show in Vienna, when people like a collection or rather, one single piece from a collection, the audience start applauding. Applause - is it licit to deduct that fashion is perceived as a theatre-like attraction?

Vive le spectacle ...



... sorry everyone, but this has to be in German, exceptionally -

Nach eher langwierigen und nicht ganz hürdenlosen Recherchen erschien in der heutigen Ausgabe der Tageszeitung Die Presse ein Beitrag über Modeförderung in Österreich, den ich dem der deutschen Sprache mächtigen Teil meiner Leserschaft mit Interesse für das österreichische Modesystem ans Herz legen möchte. Oder ans Hirn?

And now, back to "normal" ...



... for reasons you'll never guess, I was just looking around a little and came across this exhibition which recently opened in the GARAGE art centre in Moscow.

"The Feast of Trimalchio" sports work by the Russian art collective AES+F, which is no stranger to Viennese art people of course.

I do like this new twist they've given their work, from battle field to ancient times and back - with a whiff of Greenaway's cook, thief, wife and lover in the air, so to say. And Garage is really an address one should put on one's list for the next trip to Moscow...



... this is a double post about _fabrics interseasons, or Wally Salner's and Johannes Schweiger's multi-faceted work...

... as professors of the BA in fashion design at the uni Linz on the one hand, on the occasion of a presentation of their students' work tomorrow evening in Haus Wittgenstein with an ensuing exhibition (June 12 - 14) ...

... and because of a special one-off sample sale they'll host in their studio this weekend: Haymerlegasse 6/3, 1160 is the place to be on Sat June 12, noon - 9 pm and on Sun June 13, noon - 7 pm. Carry cash, please, as "nur Bares ist Wahres" is the _fabrics motto ...




... another one of these artsy DOPPELGANGER features, *but* - it has to be (I say thank you to Nina for pointing this out to me, as she wandered on to visit Klimt's Beethoven Frieze in Vienna's venerable Secession)...

The show "Into the Cave" with artworks by Francis Upritchard (I first saw her stuff in Venice last year, I think) is currently on in Secession, where you can also see the Beethovenfries by Klimt.

Now, site-specific that Upritchard's installation is, she included a cute little Klimt-quote in the form of a little figure entitled "The Tea Lady". Wonderfully similar, quite a doppelganger-case, I say...



... now, even though I'm not much of a shopper myself, I adore shop windows and actually wrote an article about window decoration that I still quite like one year ago or so. One particularly interesting kind: the drapery. Since I can most definitely affirm that my sewing skills stopped my career in fashion right where it might have taken off, I always felt really taken aback by the fact that you cannot carry away the beautiful arrangements "tel que" right the way you see them in the show window. But that's not the point of a drapery, of course, I was told...

Recently I came by this Viennese fabric institution called Komolka (oh, and do check out their website, it's marvellous - "print" is le mot du jour) where you'll find an impressive variety of material of all kinds and sorts - and I felt really drawn to this Pilotto and Kane have lunch with McQueen and Alexis joins them a little later "petite" window fantasy. Charming, no? ...


... it's Father's Day next Sunday - and since finding a present for your daddy isn't any easier than finding one for your mummy, I thought that this mechanical flower by Editions de parfum Frédéric Malle might do the trick.

I adore it because I find that there is a little Memphis-Milano Movement touch to the object itself, and it also reminds me of 1980s French utopia feeling (think minitel).

The Fleur mécanique is a device that you feed with the home fragrance series by Frédéric Malle, which it distributes in any room you like. It's electricity-powered and might just do the trick for a father who's more into technology than flowers. Only available in the company's flagship stores in Paris and NYC ...



... oh, I truly truly find Simone and Yuji adorable, and I absolutely love their work and must say that their approach of traditional costume with a twist is much to my delight.

So how could I not post this invitation, and you'll notice that the rosa mosa trunk show and Edwina's sale from, alas!, last Sunday (do believe me: it's not that I'm lazy...) take place in the same building (only that Edwina got the numbers wrong and turned 34 into 43).

Next fashion hotspot? Sure, dude...

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