FASHION reactivator

Marco Zanini for Elsa Schiaparelli

... that was quick (and a little surprising, too): Marco Zanini, who we learned last week is to be replaced with Alessandro dell'Acqua at the helm of Rochas, will be the new creative director of Schiaparelli.

Elsa Schiaparelli by Christian Lacroix,
presented during Haute Couture week in July 2013, photo: ParisVienne

Now, this appointment also puts an end to seasons and seasons of speculations regarding the creative vision that was to be adopted for the relaunch of the "belle au bois dormant" that was Elsa Schiaparelli's fashion brand. 

Surrealism it was ...

Diego della Valle, who is the mastermind behind all this, did take his time before making up his mind as to who would head his freshly revived high fashion brand - and there was quite a bit of name dropping before Zanini's definite appointment. In the course of these past few years we heard of Giles Deacon, Gareth Pugh, maybe even Peter Pilotto or Marios Schwab as "potential" designers for Schiaparelli.

Elsa Schiaparelli herself, as seen by Christian Lacroix.
Part of the Schiaparelli presentation in July, photo: ParisVienne

Monsieur Christian Lacroix, who presented a very faithful, surrealist and rather "museum piece/theatrical costume" Haute Couture collection for Schiaparelli could hardly be considered a serious choice in the long run (Lacroix has shifted the centre of his attention from fashion to theatre, or so we hear). 

Marco Zanini, who has been doing rather well (if a bit puffily) at Rochas over the past few years definitely belongs to a different league of fashion designers as he has shown his ability (and readiness) to familiarise himself with a creative legacy that is being handed over to him (I could find out for myself when I talked to him about his new post at Rochas, back in 2009).

What remains there to say but that I am much looking forward to Zanini's first Haute Couture collection for Schiaparelli in January and I definitely wish him the best of luck for his new task ...