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façade detail at the Agentur V showroom
... ___fabrics interseason are present in Paris with two projects. On the one hand, they collaborated with Mühlbauer for a capsule collection of hats, which was exhibited at Première Classe tradeshow and in the showroom of Agentur V.
On the other hand, their spring 2010 collection has hit the fashion floor. Harmoniously going along with their couvre-chefs for Mühlbauer, and faithfully in line with their layered and casual silhouette.
Interesting: very self-confident logo prints on a bag they did, some kind of raw cotton/jute bag covered by a layer of transparent plastic. Eye-catching though the bag was, you couldn't help but wonder how long it would survive heavy use...
... it's fashion week in Paris, and this means - obviously - that everybody who's somebody in the fashion biz tries to come up with something special.
So the Bon Marché just opened a marvellous Guy Bourdin exhibition (with a lot of celebrities attending the opening), Maria Luisa makes fashion furore with a shop-in-shop sales point at Printemps.
Meanwhile, and next door, David Lynch created shopwindow designs (or let's call them installations) for eleven "vitrines" at the Galeries Lafayette.
Sorry for the quality of these pictures, btw., but taking a picture of a shop window is quite a tricky thing. The mirror that yields you back into the realm of your desires. Or something...
Definitely something that attracts the attention of the (massive number of) passers-by. With the presence of fashion being very, uhm, subtle.
But then again, fashion concerns so many aspects of life. It doesn't always have to be over-explicit...
la grêve générale has turned into the general flu: the "grippe" is on many a Parisian mind, these days...
... here at my friends' place ...
... yesterday morning @ Kenzo, just about when the gold circle at the end of the runway exploded and gave way to wind machines and a massive shower of gold glitter and tinsel (or whatever it's called in English)...
Kenzo was very golden indeed...
... which was sticking on everybody's heads and cleavages and everything (and got caught behind my glasses), there was this poor fashion editor next to me who was coughing her way through the - pretty solid, not my type, but pretty solid indeed - show and all I could think of was the new flu and at the same time how sick that was and then I imagined the entire fashion cosmos falling ill then and there and myriads of runway reviews remaining unwritten and then I just stopped and enjoyed the finale...
Google search "racoon tail" gives a good idea of certain details dangling from LV bags...
... just came "home" from LV and had a quick snack before finally starting to write down all the articles that I've prepared during the past few days ...
Huey, Dewey and Louie were also there, somehow...
... and wondering, after remembering a word from Blica., and seeing a Vogue editor leaving the Louvre tent, shaking his head, how much margin there is indeed for MEDIATIC INDEPENDENCE in print titles that heavily depend (and more than ever) on advertising budgets...
that's what the girls were wearing on their heads (in all kinds of colours)...
... for expressing what you think about a collection in the official media that you're working for, and how much of an ALTERNATIVE PLAYGROUND blogs are actually for a lot of people. Besides that, I was recently confronted with A REACTION DANGEROUSLY CLOSE TO INTIMIDATION which occurred "behind the scenes" and that touched on my work as a journalist ...
maybe Marc or someone from his design team had been to Athens recently?
... which brings me back to the initial point of WHERE ARE YOU ABLE TO SAY WHAT YOU WANNA SAY if not in your blog - unless your real life identity is known, which has its advantages and disadvantages, and isn't that really the point of writing a blog?
... and felt urged to combine clog chic with Greek pompons...
All of this notwithstanding, I found Marc's collection for LV (my camera decided to go to sleep there and then, but there'll be loads and loads of pictures around) a relatively entertaining one, with afro wigs balancing on the models' heads and foxtails dangling from LV bags transformed into and picking up the omnipresent rucksack theme...
... on a damp and warm autumn (?) day where I was almost show-free I went and visited Christiane Gruber, the designer of Awareness & Consciousness, in her showroom.
The spring 2010 collection of her label recombines tailored elements and cuts from previous collections - a decision the designer took because it allowed her to focus on refining the printing technique that is the signature element of her work ever since she started her own fashion brand in 2005.
Christiane's colour range for spring 2010
A powdery solution giving a saturated brown tone consists of colour pigments of yellow, blue and red. Varying methods of dipping the cloth into colour solutions lead to unique and ever-changing results.
New and eye-catching extension of the beautiful collection for spring 2010: chains with agate pendants which joyfully reflect the organic free-floating patterns of the characteristic Awareness & Consciousness prints - and are a beautiful showroom decoration, hanging against the light that shimmers through the outer glass wall...
... besides being a lovely spot indeed, Paris more often than not is about LONG QUEUES.
One of the highlights, lately: the opening of the first UNIQLO branch near Opéra. I had just been checking out the Galeries LaFayette and thought that I might as well take a look...
... and had to realise in awe that TWO ENORMOUS QUEUES had formed around the block, with employees holding up END OF THE LINE signs.
Incroyable, I say. But then again, the very same day this happend, the Nuit Blanche was another good option for queuing and waitign - since many a hotspot was sought after by too many Parisians. I checked out the 104 ART SPACE (with an installation by Ugo Rondinone, among others) but was a little bit disappointed.
Anyhow, fashion people know what it's like to wait - since of course no show ever starts on time and no interview partner ever shows up on time.
Bon ben... Bonne (file d') attente !
... after some pouring rainfalls yesterday morning, and on my way to a friend's flooded place (because of her neighbour, not the rain - there was a roof, after all...), I had time for a stopover at the very dark and yet somehow exquisite-looking tradeshow THE BOX (you cannot help wondering HOW ON EARTH exhibitors and buyers stay alert during the long hours they spend in these frequently ENORMOUS halls with corridors and corridors of stands and booths).
It was on my MUST-SEE MUST-DO list because of dear Anne-Marie Herckes, whose latest mini-couture creations I absolutely wanted to check out.
Earlier this summer, she had immediately reacted after the death of Michael J. and created a tribute brooch (well, if there's no concert, you'll need a brooch...). Now, there is a celebrity trio consisting of Madonna, Mick Jagger and MJ.
Besides that, there are Annemarie's by now familiar hommages to cities, I absolutely hearted NY.
Crocodiles and tennis rackets alluded to the dream couple of tennis, Steffi Graf and Andre Agassi (through the Louis Vuitton bias, there is a very strong fashion reference...).
And, there were lots of chains with little bows attached, very colourful. And particularly sought after, even by Annemarie's colleagues exhibiting next door - uhm, next booth...
... recently, walking through the Marais, I saw this kind of pigeon feeding place (?) that could just as well have been an installation of ARTE POVERA or something.
Dry slices of bread and autumn leaves...
... Paris is so chic that even its trash turns into art... !!!
... went to Première Classe and met Rosa Mosa, or rather Simone and Yuji of course.
Such a charming couple, and such a convincing and homogeneous aesthetic, in steady and absolutely harmonic evolution over the years.
image: Manfred Veigl
For spring/summer 2010, Rosa Mosa came up with something very special once again: they collaborated with an Austrian blue-printer and developped a special technique for leather blueprints.
I HEART.
... I don't usually get into the collection review thingy on my blog...
... but I was surprised to read Suzy Menkes' opinion on the Viktor & Rolf show. For once, this was a very impressive runway experience, with Roisin Murphy rocking the stage (by far catchier than the - nevertheless classy - tango combo @ Hussein Chalayan) and the word "cut out" being given a new dimension...
... and the whole ruffle mania was absolutely complemented by very wearable pieces in the collection. After all, this appeared to be a very clever combination of show-stoppers, pieces made for magazine editorials only and some totally reduced dresses and pantsuits.
I admit that the perfume is a bit too melon-y and its name EAU MEGA suggests, as the Grande Dame of Austrian fashion journalism Brigitte Winkler very poignantly commented, that it could absolutely be an Issey Miyake fragrance given this kind of phonetic word play, but then, hey, without marketing skills it's hard to survive, these days...
... Venise à septembre ? I went there some weeks ago, and found a place completely different from what it would have been like in June.
J'en suis sûr. So I thought, why not write an article about my septemberly Venice experience?
It was published and is now online on Shift magazine. En anlais et japonais, bien entendu...
... Paris is buzzing with fashion...
... and has all sorts of media allies...
... from low to high fashion...
AND, after all the talk there had been about Anna's new humaneness & humility, her not wearing sunglasses in Milan and blah - the sunglasses were on again @ Dior, and so were the crossed arms and the upright, unpenetrable posture.
Comme il faut, mode à Paris...
tshirt, American Apparel, vest Topman, trousers H&M, sneakers Nike, scarf vintage
... c'est l'automne and the beginning of fall. Therefore, yield, you colours of yonder.
Black in black with a little vintage scarf sporting oldtimers and klaxons.
... après la fête, c'est avant la fête, hein...
AND REMEMBER : EVERY PARISIAN DOOR HAS ITS ENTRANCE CODE
what a beautiful metaphor
loora loora loora !
... is French for rucksack, and since every-body around here seems to be so into the topic...
... and since I got myself a really nice one after my trip to Scandinavia this summer...
... here we go. I mean, it's not endlessly compatible with les défilés de mode and everything, but...
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