MATRYOSHKA of mine

... it's always a delight for me to go through the lookbooks of my favourite avantgarde shoe label of all times, rosa mosa - Simone and Yuji, who are just plain wonderful persons, usually come up with an entertaining yet refined way of referencing more or less exotic cultures. I think something tells me we might be heading EAST for fall 2012 (hello, matryoshka, I'm talking to you). Lovely: the cover of their lookbook with a special one-off type designed by Frau Ober for the occasion. Watch out for rosa mosa in New York (Greg Mills Showroom), Milan (Showroom Tadino 24 and White tradeshow on Feb. 25-27, just around the corner from Armani's show venue...) and, naturellement, Paris (Première Classe, March 2-5) ...


... saison après saison c'est un grand plaisir de découvrir les dernières références utilisées par Simone et Yuji, mes créateurs de chaussures préférés de tous temps, dans la nouvelle collection signée "rosa mosa". Je viens de recevoir l'invitation et j'ai aussi sous mes mains le lookbook de la prochaine saison - et il y a là-dedans quelque chose qui me dit que la prochaine destination de ce duo créatif pourrait être la Russie. L'idée a aussi très bien été transportée au niveau des caractères pseudo-russes créés exprès pour cette publication par la graphiste Frau Ober. Ne ratez pas Simone et Yuji à New York (chez Greg Mills Showroom), à Milan (chez Showroom Tadino 24 ou au salon White, du 25 au 27 février, juste à côté du théâtre de Giorgio Armani) ou encore, et bien sûr, à Paris (Première Classe, du 2 au 5 mars) ...

VAMPIRE approved

... when I did research for an article that I recently wrote about the possible impact of the current situation in Japan on some of Austria's most forward-thinking and best-known fashion labels, I also visited Simone Springer and Yuji Mizobuchi in their rosa mosa studio in Vienna's fifth district. Although we had a very serious and preoccupying subject to talk about, I used the opportunity to marvel at their collection for fall/winter 2011 and, sure enough, liked a lot what I saw. Simone and Yuji have been congenial in picking up traditional craftsmanship (for example Austrian blueprinting techniques) or regional "specialities" which they went on to use in their own collections. Fall 2011 will be about TRANSILVANYA, which basically means, rosa mosa's shoes will be VAMPIRE SAFE. Seriously, I think that their upcoming collection is as refined as it is witty (because easy-going wit and humour are definitely a characteristic of Simone's and Yuji's work, for me), and I think that many fashion freaks will be eager to discover the vampire within ...


... je suis allé voir Simone Springer et Yuji Mizobuchi récemment, l'adorable couple de créateurs derrière la griffe ROSA MOSA, connue pour des collections de chaussures à caractère tout à fait unique - là, c'était pour un article que j'ai écrit sur le possible impact de la situation au Japon sur des jeunes marques autrichiennes qui dépendent très fortement de ce marché dynamique, mais à la même occasion, ils m'ont aussi montré leur collection pour automne/hiver 2011 que j'ai beaucoup aimé. Je dois dire, ces deux créateurs, ils savent vraiment se servir de l'idée des IDENTITÉS LOCALES devenant toujours plus importantes. Auparavant, ils avaient élaboré exprès une technique d'impression à l'indigo sur le cuir, et pour leurs dernières collections, ils ont voyagé à chaque fois en Europe centrale pour trouver des inspirations. La dernière à ce jour, c'était la Transylvanie, en Roumanie, région de laquelle est originaire le très angoissant Vlad Dracul. C'est donc fait par et pour des vampires, on pourrait dire, et c'est tout simplement merveilleux ...

all Photos by: Manfred Veigl/littlestars.at; concept & styling: Mana Furuyama

... sono andato a trovare Simone Springer e Yuji Mizobuchi, i due stilisti del label ROSA MOSA, nel loro studio qualche settimana fa - abbiamo soprattutto parlato della situazione attuale nel Giappone e delle possibili conseguenze per dei marchi di moda (austriaci) fortemente dipendenti di questo mercato. Una volta che ero andato lì, non abbiamo perso l'occasione di parlare della loro collezione per autunno/inverno 2011. Devo dire, e tutti i lettori di ParisVienne lo sapranno, che apprezzo moltissimo il lavoro di Simone e Yuji, e per una semplice ragione: loro due hanno capito cosa vuol dire l'accentuazione d'identità locali. S'interessano di tradizioni artigianali, viaggiano in Europa Centrale (certe regioni d'Austria, Ungheria...) per trovare nuove tecniche da essere utilizzate nelle loro collezioni. L'estate scorsa, sono andati in Romania/Transilvania, il risultato è una collezione a tenuta di vampiri - e molto molto raffinata ...

TOKYO Vienna BUDAPESZT

... luckily there was time enough for me to visit Première Classe (where I also bumped into Camille, but that's another story) and talk to my favourite shoe designers ever, Simone and Yuji from Rosa Mosa ...

lookbook images by Manfred Veigl

... their spring 2011 collection remains faithful to what Rosa Mosa stands for - not overly delicate shoe models, raw wooden soles, massive heels, and then there's also a little bit of that omnipresent cloggy thing, absolutely delightful everything ...


... and I'm always curious to find out about the particular twist which they will give to their collection, they usually dig up some very rare and almost extinct handcrafting technique which they will quote (such as the wonderful leather blue-print collection - there is a reminder of that one with the almost batik-looking leather) ...


... this time round it was the white sheets with colourful threads woven through the structure of the material which they saw on the benches of a Hungarian church (!) that got them thinking, so they actually found someone (in Hungary) who produced these embroidered (is it embroidery, in English, actually? some kind of, no?) white textiles for them. Ah ! ...

OUT OF THE BLUE

... oh, I truly truly find Simone and Yuji adorable, and I absolutely love their work and must say that their approach of traditional costume with a twist is much to my delight.

So how could I not post this invitation, and you'll notice that the rosa mosa trunk show and Edwina's sale from, alas!, last Sunday (do believe me: it's not that I'm lazy...) take place in the same building (only that Edwina got the numbers wrong and turned 34 into 43).

Next fashion hotspot? Sure, dude...

Rosa Mosa blueprinting in Paris

... went to Première Classe and met Rosa Mosa, or rather Simone and Yuji of course.

Such a charming couple, and such a convincing and homogeneous aesthetic, in steady and absolutely harmonic evolution over the years.

image: Manfred Veigl

For spring/summer 2010, Rosa Mosa came up with something very special once again: they collaborated with an Austrian blue-printer and developped a special technique for leather blueprints.

I HEART.